It's hard to kill us! Part 2/2

Our driver drifted 180 degrees at the end of the road. Some middle age woman was putting wet clothes on the string. She was surprised when we stop next to her. Our friend asked her in farsi how can we leave the village, which road we have to take? We all understand her answer when she pointed her finger to the direction we just came. Tony wanted to run to the mountains and left car there. I was screaming "Yes and guys on motorbikes will catch us in 5 minutes." Actually everyone in the car was screaming all ideas and thoughts. I was ready to went in the car same way back, even rub through our attackers. Our friend who was driving got the same insane idea. There wasn't any other way how to get through.

Now it would be good to tell story of Kamron, thanks to him and his family I'm able to write this post now.
When Max and Georg stopped in the village, no one would started hunt on them. They arrived in well known car with well known villagers. They didn't do anything suspicious and most important, they wasn't in line of sight of the crowd, because the car stopped in the little street between houses.

They disembarked from the car and were looking around, waiting for us. When we arrived to the village and the whole action was launched, they just stood, unable to move or do anything. It's was so unexpected and violent. After few moments Kamron tried to help. He wasn't able to get close but he called his family and they came to save us. They definitely succeed. When we were stuck in dead end they stopped with their bodies motorbikes and the rest of the crowd who came later. They explained them that we are harmless and will not report anything. This approach works. Kamron's uncle was important figure in the village. I didn't ask what exactly was his position there but you can see the difference. So they came for us in his car, we have to change the car and left the stuff in our car there. We were so scared and shaking so much.
It was so relieving, he was speaking to us without pause: "Everything will be ok, don't worry."

When we passed by all people, who just moments ago wanted to kill us, I wasn't even able to look at their faces.  They didn't look more friendly. Anyway we were in locked car again but this time their intimate presence wasn't so terrified.
This way to Kamron's house was so long and you could easily walk next to the car.
My concept of time has radically changed. Time at the beginning of village run so fast but it was completely opposite near the dead end and on the way to Kamron's house.
When we finally get there and I got out of the car I was still shaking. They took us into house and were reminding us that everything is ok, we're safe there.Kamron's grandmother was using offensive language to the anonymous crowd. She was standing next in the yard and shouting as loud as she could. I still have her picture in my mind as it would happened few seconds ago. There were a lot of people from the house around us. I felt safe.

Our German friends were already in the room, eager to learn all details about situation. Anyone could see that we were still in the shock. Kamron couldn't look into our eyes. He invited us for lunch but circumstances almost caused our lives. He was also shocked by his neighbours. We sat on the floor and got great lunch prepared by Kamron's family. It was hard to ate anything but after some time i could even feel taste of food.

lunch

Kamron was all the time quiet. It was concluded that after the lunch we will not stay in the village longer.
Kamron's cousin drove our car out of the valley and we in the car with his uncle were transported to our car.
When we were leaving the valley I saw that some people on motorbikes left village few minutes before us.
I got the feeling that they could meet us somewhere on the way to Shahrekord. Looking around the road, expecting the worse. Such a lovely journey back to Isfahan. Fortunately nothing happened. We changed for the bus and arrived in Isfahan, where we met our friends.  

We are lucky friends, being on the wrong place in the wrong time and still get over without any physical harm is unbelievable. When I'm telling this story to some of my friends I'm smiling. It's not real smile, it's relieving smile. Being so close to the dead could change person. I knew that it changed me and it will influence some of my actions in the future. I was asked if we will come again to Sarche, do you know what I replied?

It's hard to kill us! Part 1/2

In the morning we met with Kamron close to Sio-se-pol bridge. It was beautiful morning, we were accompanied by our lovely hosts. We had to wait for Kamron for a while, but before he arrived we had small re-union with our friends from train: Max and Georg. Finally Kamron shows up and told us that we have to take a bus to get to his village.  So we walked along the river, past through crazy traffic in the city and got to the bus. When we wanted to pay, Kamron forbid us. We didn't feel good to let him pay but he was faster.
So sitting in the bus, talking about past few days after one hour we arrived to Shahrekord. From the bus it looks like small provincial city. What we didn't know is that Shahrekord is among highest towns in Iran, it's 2220 m above sea level. Kamron told us that his village is close to Shahrekord. He went to get some transport for us. One thing was sure, place next to bus station didn't look friendly. When we were waiting for him, some taxi drivers approached us with questions in Persian for which we didn't had answers. Everyone passing by looked suspicious and unfriendly. It wasn't so hot as in Esfahan, but the air was full of dust. Some minutes later Kamron came with some of his friends and we got into two cars and headed out of the town into mountains.
 We were driving for two hours. Kamron with his friend and Gorg and Max were in the first car. We three and our excellent formula 1 driver were in the second car. He was driving on these small roads so fast that we had to wait for the second car for 15 minutes until they arrived to our location next to river.

 

Then again racing started. We made another stop in our driver's village. He wanted to show us his family and house and drink "Chai" with them. Chai means tea and sounds exactly as word tea in Slavic languages.
We got a call from Kamron who was wondering where we were. So in a few minutes we were back on the road going as fast as possible to Sarche.

Sarche was located in small valley, looked small. Our driver told us that he had never been there yet and only 2000 people are living there. Such a small village.
First car entered the village smoothly and parked in some near house. Then it's was our move to slowly get down to the valley. Tony in the front filming interesting view on right side and me with Barbara in the back. Then I saw big crowd of people standing next to two small trucks arguing about something.
I immediately took a photo of them. Twice to be sure. I said:" Hey Tony, look at the right side, take them on the video. It would be nice to have them in our trip documentary." "Sure", he responded and looked with camera on the right side, taking approximately few seconds of HD video. Everything happened so fast. One young guy, he could be 17/19 years old, saw us in the car with camera. He was sitting on the top of one truck and he shouted something pointing on us.

That was the moment when all these people stopped arguing and looked at us. Everyone was silent for one or two seconds. I froze in fear of near future, I guess everyone in the car did.

Then all the people started to run towards our car. Everything in the next paragraphs happened in few minutes, not more than 15-30 minutes.
First thing which I did was removing first photo I took. I took my flash card from camera and I hid it in a secret pocket. I didn't think about it much, it was like a reflex. I had them on the photo and they didn't see me taking it. Tony hid his camera under seat and our driver was trying to calm us down. He said: "it will be OK, i will speak with them in farsi."


No it wasn't OK. From the moment we saw them running to our car, we screamed to driver, "turn the car, let's go out of the village". Actually he couldn't do that. There wasn't enough place to turn over the car on the road. He was also afraid but he still thought that it will be OK when he will be speaking with them. 


They didn't let him speak. Later when we share our memories from the event we realize that not all of them started to run to the car. Some of them started to run to the nearest houses. They probably went for some guns or others to help them. When they came to our car some of them already had some stuff which could be used as a weapons and they tried to drag us out. Two front windows were open. I closed our windows in the back and locked out all doors. I guess it saved our lives that time. Quarter second after crowd enclosed the car they started to strangle our driver and tried to drag him out through the window, because doors were locked. I was locking it immediately after they tried to open them. Fortunately our driver stepped on the accelerator pedal and we moved a meter or two. That surprised the guy who was strangling him and he backed off. Our driver realizing that he had a free throat again, stepped on the accelerator pedal again and at maximum speed went deeper into the village. We were screaming at least in the same intensity as our attackers if not more.


We stopped after 60 or 70 metres, because riding car on that kind of road in full speed wasn't easy. I was afraid that we would never get out of this ... village. No more than two minutes lasted our peace (sorry master yoda speaking).
We were screaming to each other our possibilities, then suddenly three motorbikes came next to the car. Two men on each. I was surprise, how they manage to took their motorbikes so fast? It was like from Hollywood movie, we in car trying to get rid of them and these people trying to stop the car, and take us out. It was clear for us that if we would be out of the car, they would kill us without questions and no one could ever know what's happened to us there. They managed to strangled our driver again but when the car run through something on the road and jumped a bit, he stopped. At the same time another motorbikes approached from the left side and the villager tried to drag Tony out through the window, tearing his yellow shirt a bit but wasn't able to take him out. He even tried to open locker on the doors but I immediately locked it again.
It happened at least three times. Then Tony finally managed to close the window. 

Both windows in the front were already closed when arrived to the end of the road. 

Part 2

the magical city of Esfahan

Some people who heard we're heading for Iran advised us to visit Esfahan, referring to it as "Iranian Krakow". It is also known as the city of artists, famous bridges, rugs and beautiful architecture.

We said good bye to our German friends but only for a while, because we were supposed to meet again the next day. Tony arranged that they'd be hosted by on of our potential hosts, Hassan.

We went to meet our host, Mahtab and her father and went to their house to leave our stuff. There we met Mahtab's sister, Mitra and their mother. Then we went to see the city. The girls showed us Khaju Bridge and Si-o-se Pol, also known as The Bridge of 33 Arches.

The area by the river is charming. Tony got a cigar from a passer-by but had to throw it away, because a policeman reminded him that he couldn't smoke in public during the Ramadan.

Near the Si-o-se Pol we met Mahtab's friend Hamed who told us a lot about the history of the city. We saw UNESCO World Heritage Site - Nash-e Jahan Square
(aka Imam Square) with Ali Qapu Palace. You can see it on 20 000 rial note.

Then we visited Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque, where I had to wear chadora. The Mosque has double cupola and if you make any sound directly under it, it echoes two times.

After we left the Mosque, we were joined by Persian guy Salman aka Awesome Guy and Arthur, a French guy who studied Persian. We went through the Esfahan Grand Bazaar to have some rest in a park. Somehow I fell asleep there, right on the grass ;)

In the late afternoon our friends arranged carpet demonstration for us. We had some tea there and learned about different kinds of carpets, which were the most valuable, what materials were used, how to make carpet look old, ect.

In the evening we went for tea and water pipe with our newly met friends. We all agreed to meet the next day in the evening, for the CS meeting, after our return from Kamron's village.

Iranian trains

We decided to travel from Teheran to Esfahan by train. It turned out to be quite cheap and it was the night train which saved us some time. But it was not as easy as in Poland or Ukraine, where you just buy a ticket and hop in. Noo.

Since we were foreigners, we had to use our passports on every occasion. First, they needed our names to reserve places on the train. I think it would be much harder for us to arrange without Mohsen, who helped us a lot.

The entrance to the platforms looks like gate entrance at the airport. No ticket - no entry. If you have big luggage, there are men waiting with carts. Additionally, if you're a foreigner, you need to go through passport control with your ticket. That's where we bumped into two German and agreed to meet again on the train.

We shared compartment with two Iranians. One of them was about 50-60 years old and had just had heart surgery. He spoke English very well and told us of his travel to the USA before the revolution.

Then one of the German guys, Max, found us. We talked a bit and he went back to his compartment. When we saw him again, the train crew arranged that Max and his brother would exchange their compartment with our Iranian companions so we spent the rest of the journey in strictly European compartment ;)

When a man with a trolley came, we decided to have some tea. I went away for a while and when I came back, there was another Iranian in our compartment. He told us his name was Kamron and that he was a poet. And he looked like a dreamer. He invited us to his village, only an hour away from Esfahan, in the mountains. We accepted the invitation as all the cities were similar and we believed that villages were the most interesting places to visit.

Then Kamron left and we went to sleep. When we woke up, the train had almost reached its destination.

Since it's not allowed to take photos at the railway station, you can see only inside of the train:

Visiting 19th largest city in the world

We finally arrived in Tehran. Alive! As soon as we parked the car we exhaled all stress from the journey.

We hurried to the meeting point - Laleh Park - where we were supposed to meet Teheran couchsurfers. 

 The very first person we met was a Polish guy, Dawid. He was there with some German guys and lovely Persian girl (who lived in Vienna) for summer internship as members of IAESTE organization. 

After that we were joined by Tehranians. At the time we had no idea that we'd find a great friend among them. I mean Mohsen aka our Brother aka Master Mike (but we'll get there) and his sister. He was very quiet that time.After the meeting we split up. Tony and Martin were smuggled into dormitory by the IAESTE people and I went to visit Elmira, my CS host.

 If moving from Rzeszów to Kraków changed my perception of distance, visiting Tehran was like revolution. This city is HUGE. 730 sq km makes quite an impression. Luckily I got a ride from one of the couchsurfers.

Elmira's flat was really beautiful, she herself was very nice. I also met her mother who was in Poland sometime ago. We talked a bit about traveling, plans for future, ect. and went to sleep. Listening to Elmira and her mother I really liked the sound of Persian language.

The next day we were supposed to go to the Contemporary Art Museum. I got up, had breakfast, asked Elmira for direction and set out. It was quite complicated for me since I was used to travel by two means of transport within the city. There I had to take a taxi to get to the metro station. Then I went by two metro trains to the center, then I had to take another taxi (and, for the first time in my life, I shared it with total strangers). The journey to the Museum took me two hours.

After visiting the Museum, we met Mohsen for the city tour. We were supposed to meet his sister as well but she couldn't come. He told us he was a tourism student and suggested a trip to Qeshm Island in Persian Gulf. We agreed to go there after visiting Persepolis.

During the walk around the city we saw almost all important places. Then we ate in the park, hiding from police because of Ramadan.

We also visited the bazaar Martin bought a new shirt :)

Then we met Mohsen's friend, Minoo and saw Iranian wrestling training.

When the sun went down, we went to meet our European friends for dinner with water pipe. We were a bit late because of some metro malfunction. We got stuck on a metro station and, after long waiting, decided to take a taxi. Unfortunately, Minoo had to leave us.

Terribly hungry we finally found our friends. The dinner was very nice but it was getting late and we had to go back. Since there was no bus, we had to take taxi. The guys tried to bargain with drivers. In the end, I went to Elmira's with Mohsen, who had to make sure I entered the building safely.

TIP: Monday is a day when all museums in Iran are closed. But on Monday Sept 6th 2010 we decided to visit National Museum of Iran before we left for Esfahan. Tony suggested that we try everything to get inside. We even talked to the manager, very nice lady in chadora (actually, all ladies there were wearing chadoras). We asked for her permission, told her it was our last day in Tehran and how important it was for our cultural studies and she allowed us to enter for 20 minutes. We had whole museum for ourselves. There were many beautiful things there, jewelry, statues, weapons, parts of Persepolis buildings, even the Salt Man - well preserved human body found in salt mine in 1993.

After that we spent some more time with Mohsen who was with us all day long. We bought train tickets, ate dinner and planned to meet in Shiraz.